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WELCOME TO MIRDITA
Agency for
the Development of Mountainous Areas
AN
EXCURSION IN THE MOUNTAINOUS REALM OF
MIRDITA
Many
foreign and Albanian authors are attracted
to Mirdita with their writings and studies,
because they have noticed there “a strange
world” that deserves the attention of
scholars and observers from all of Europe.
The drama of human grief, bitter luck,
whimsy, the thrilling dilemmas for the
conveyance of Self, the Kanun and Catholic
religion are played continuously in the epic
theatre of her crests. “Bad to live and
worse to die”, says a Mirdita proverb, that
makes you think about the well-known
philosophic verse of Shakespeare “To be or
not to be”. Mirdita, this ancient region,
maybe with the most beautiful name in the
Albanian world, represents a characteristic
realm with a rare archaeological,
ethnographical, lingual, folkloric and
cultural tradition in the cultural map of
Albania, dating from the ancient Illyrian
times. The name of the region is first seen
in the Ottoman registers of Sanxhak of
Dukagjin in the period 1533-1536. According
to the data, the first mention of the name
“Mirdita” was made in Orosh. Here resided
the leaders of the region and the Abbacy.
In the 19th century and in the
beginning of the 20th century,
Mirdita is represented as the geographic
union of 12 units, each one with a name
defined boundaries. These were called the 12
bayraks (districts) of Mirdita. Mirdita was
the most distinctive region for the
protection and functioning of traditional
rights under the Kanun of Leka. This code
lived until our times because it played
several vital functions in the country
communities in these highlands. Under the
conditions of foreign conquests it was an
instrument of insurance for Mirdita’s
autonomy and integrity. The region has a
surface of 867 km2 and a border length of
178 km. As an ethnologic region it occupies
a surface of 1,630 hectares.
The Mirdita
area is mentioned as the country of
Illyrians and Pirusts. Archaeological
discoveries show that inhabitants were here
since the Stone Age (4500-2500 B.C). In
1600 there were 3,300 homes with about
25,000 inhabitants. The highest population
was reached in 1995 with 54,631 inhabitants,
decreasing to 35,000 today because of
demographic migration.
Geographers
and historians put Pirusts in the Ethnologic
Mirdita and also in the Middle Mat region.
Their territory was hilly, mountainous and
rich in minerals. These inhabitants utilized
the natural wealth, which would have been
mostly on or near the surface, and began the
mastery of manufacturing metals, copper,
silver, etc. There is evidence for the
existence of early mines and also of crafts
manufacturing industries for smelting,
smithy, etc. The Roman Emperor, Trajani,
transferred many of the Pirusts to
Transylvania for the manufacturing of gold.
Roman attacks on the Pirusts tribe in 12
A.D badly defeated them, and the population
decreased. The region was repopulated in
later times because of natural increase and
from the migration of people other
territories. The institution of
administrative units instead of tribal ones
led to the limitation of the Pirust’s
territory, under the new geographic name
Nderfane. This occurred at probably the
same time with the changing of the name for
current Albania from Ilir to Arber.
Approaching
the border of Mirdita, an arched bridge,
known as the Bridge of Zog seems like an
entrance gate. Built in 1927, during the
period of King Ahmet Zog’s reign, it is
doubtless one of the most special bridges in
the Albanian road infrastructure. As one of
the biggest and most sophisticated
structures built in the period since the
1930s, the bridge was designed by the
Italian engineer, Martini, who had a
building enterprise with the same name. The
bridge project was implemented by the
Albanian engineer Gjovalin Gjadri from Puka,
who was known as the designer of the
Milot-Burrel road that passes through Rubik,
Fushe-Lumth, Kthelle, Livadhi i Turkut to
Burrel, the birthplace of King Zog. The
bridge has a length of 585 meters, a width
of 5.6 meters with a space of 52 meters in
between arches. It was the first in Balkans
built with advanced methods, and the bridges
of Mifol and Dragot were built with similar
building techniques.
THE
FRANCISCAN MONASTERY OF RUBIK OVER A WHITE
CLIFF
Every
traveler who comes through Milot passes
through the monumental bridge with arcs,
continuing through the Fan valley where the
two rivers Fan and Mat join together. The
Austrian writer Fabian Barcata, a well-known
vicar of 900s called this valley “the most
beautiful in the world”. At the entrance of
Rubik, you can see over a white stone one of
the monumental churches pg Albania, the
Church of the Ascension (Shelbuemi).
See how Barcata describes it:
“…The
Rubik cliff is very large; it looks like it
is placed there by a giant in one of the
most beautiful valleys of the world. It
looks like the hand of a giant has flattened
an area and has dispatched the mountains
from one another to create a small valley
with a crown of mountains around. In the
middle of this valley is raised a colossal
stone in solitude, with a magnificent view.
Then came the people who saw that it was a
beautiful place to live, and they
established over the cliff their simple
homes. They lived and died there above,
generation after generation.
Located
precisely over this white cliff of Rubik was
a church complex with the church, vicarage
and college, built with a rare architecture
and with an inner graphic artistic
demonstration (frescoes). These structures
were reconstructed several times. The
church complex was located on a natural
balcony. This is a unique artistic work, a
favorite tourist point and a special
cultural monument. The scientist Gjecovi
wrote his name in a stone under the church;
there flew the muse of the writer Fishta,
were written the pages of the historical
diary of the priest Pal Dodaj. The Austrian
parson, Franz Barcata wrote his notes in his
diary there for ten years, while the
unrepeatable works of the painter Leon
Kabashi were created from his hands.
Taking in
consideration the building style, the church
belongs to the 13th century,
1272. The famous Shelbuemi Church of Rubik,
documented since nine hundred years ago, was
the temple of young brothers of Saint
Francis, who is thought to have planted the
pine that is known with his name in Lezhe in
1221. Frescoes have the traces of a great
medieval art. The Judej Castle was located
on the high crest of the white cliff.
Among the
most valuable discoveries--not only in
Mirdita--is the Emblem of Arber, discovered
in Geziq, in the ruins of the old church of
Nderfane. The emblem represents an eagle
with one head looking to the right.
According to the data the emblem is the
symbol of Dukagjin Leka. Together with the
emblem was found an epigraphic inscription
in the style of Nderfane Saint Premte.
Documents first mention, who projected the
foundation of the state at the end of the 12th
century and ruled in Arberia for nine years.
After him, his son Gjin has ruled Arberia
for eight years and then Dimitri for another
eight years. But where is the residency of
the Arberia State? Evidence favors
Nderfane. Here are mentioned the battles
with Ottoman Empire and the ascendance of
well-known families like Blinisht and
Dukagjin. Benedictine monasteries of Shpal
and Saint Llezhderit in Orosh, the Arberia
emblem in Nderfane, provide evidence that
the lords of these territories had this area
as their epicenter.
ASSEMBLIES
OF SHPAL
Assemblies
were the institutions with which Shpal was
identified. In 1608 the second convent of
Dukagjin was held, where the leaders of
Mirdita and other regions that made an
arrangement to get out of the Turkish
domination were called together. In Shpal
existed and functioned “the Residency of
Mirdita Parliament” and here were also held
the meetings of the 12 bayraks with the
people. It is worthy to mention several of
the other later assemblies, like that of
1862, organized by Mirdita’s Abbot Gasper
Krasniqi. In 1876 it was decided to begin
the revolt against the Turks and demand the
freedom of Prenge Bib Doda with his return
to the land; in that time the Prince was
only 18 years old. In 1880 was another
assembly where it was decided to send
fighters from Mirdita for the protection of
Hoti, Gruda and Kelmend. Another assembly
was on May 3, 1912 for the coordination of
fighting against the Turks.
If
we come back to the ancient history, roads
are among the most ancient things built by
man. Albania, thanks to a special position
in Balkans since antiquity, is traversed by
important road arteries, roads that have
traversed fields, the coast line and
valleys. They have served for thousands of
years for mutual exchanges between the
Adriatic and the East, but also as strategic
military roads. According to the researcher
Pal Nikolli, at the end of the 19th
century there were 150 paved roads and about
84 wooden or stone bridges built over rivers
and streams in our territory. A road that
linked Mirdita with the sea began in Lezha
and continued to the center of Mirdita in
Orosh, but there is little historical
information about this road. We know only
of some data noted by P. Koroneli in a 1688
map published in Venice. In our times the
Durres-Prishtine motorway traces parts of
the old caravan passes. In the valley of
Mirdita the motorway passes 26 bridges and
the Thirre-Kalimash tunnel, which at 6
kilometers long is one of the longest in
Balkans.
From
historical documentation of the Mirdita
Abbacy in Orosh had the names “San Alexandri
Maior de Albania” and “Sancti Alexandri
Diocezis Albania”. This old abbacy was
burned and robbed several times by invaders.
Considering the location of the three main
churches of Mirdita, Orosh, Rubik and
Nderfane, the researcher Aleksander Meksi
goes further than the notion of an abbacy in
the Mountain of the Saint. He concludes
that the three churches clearly define the
extension of the Catholic Bishopric of
Arberia as the actual region of Mirdita.
Considering the importance of the Orosh
abbacy in this region, the bishopric
residency of Arberia was located there. The
judicial court of the abbacy was
reconstructed later in 1888 by the
well-known abbot from Mirdita, Prend Doci.
During his 29 years in the high position of
Abbot, this cleric and patriot promoted the
values of Mirdita and created worship
institutions in a European format. The
church was demolished in 1967, destroying an
incalculable value of antique, historic and
cultural heritage.
Today this
church has been beautifully rebuilt, while a
modern cathedral with attributes of the
early abbacy has been built in the center of
Rreshen, and named “Jesus the Only Savior of
the World”. The cathedral serves as the
center of the Rreshen diocese, which offers
pastoral services for Catholic worshippers
of Mirdita, Peshkopi, Bulqiz and Mat.
BENEDICTINE
MONASTERIES
In
Mirdita, almost at the top of the Mountain
of Saint, there is a rare tree called Ulti,
which is thought to be more than 900 years
old. Out of eleven of these trees planted
by the Benedictines, two lived until seven
or eight years ago, and only one still
exists like an old sphinx. During medieval
times various monastic orders were created,
included the Benedictines, dedicated to
Saint Benedict. They lived in monasteries
together with their abbot. There they lived
the liturgical life, worked and created.
They have formed the foundations of the
modern culture. In Mirdita they were
located in the Mountain of Saint, in
Shenpal, Nderfane and Rubik establishing
their monasteries which are testimonials to
antiquity and culture.
TOURIST
RELIEF OF NENSHEJT
Miracles
of nature and uncommon histories! These you
can find only in Nenshejt, the village
lapful of divine miracles. Composed in a
perfect way, the church ensemble includes
the old abbacy of Saint Llezhder, Church of
Saint Gjergj, Church of Shengjin, Church of
Shelbuemi, Church of Petku (to attire the
dead), the summer residence of the abbot,
etc. It is a scene full of grace and
splendor, a rare city of Christianity.
Nenshejt also includes the peak of Zepa
(1987m), Fushat e Lugjeve, Cave of Ice,
Lajthiza, pine and beech trees and cold
fountains. At these heights the worshipper
was closer to mystery, while in Orosh Abbot
Doci built a residency of abbots in a
European manner. Here in these summer
mountain pastures, Miss Durham made an
interesting written portrait of the Abbot
Doci, defining him as an intelligent person
and evaluating his work in building the
school near the church. Still here in the
village of 8 typical alpine bastions, of
infinite paddocks and crystal clear cold
water, the miracle is exhilarating.
Everything can be done here, parachuting,
car and horse races, winter skiing and other
different sports such as climbing and
spelunking.
MIRDITA
TOUR 2008
July 25th 2008!
The valliant
drivers of Rally Albania have given infinite
emotions in a combined activity including
the Mirdita Ensemble in a tourist excursion,
Mirdita Tour 2008. At top speed, full of
adrenaline, without thinking about the risk,
they took their distinctive 4X4 vehicles
along mountainous roads of Mirdita, from
Rreshen to the top of Shelbuemi in Nenshejt.
The improvisation of early weddings with
old traditions of the area were the most
beautiful attraction for the participants
and many national and foreign visitors.
This was an activity organized by the
Rreshen Cultural Department with the support
of the Mountain Areas Development Agency,
aiming to promote the tourist resources of
such hinterlands. Rally cars are a symbol
of promotional excursions through the
mountains Albania. But different from what
they have done in other areas--this time in
the mountains of Mirdita--they had as their
guide the artistic ensemble of Mirdita,
bringing a magic tourist spectacle.
MIRDITA TOUR 2008
First
Stop: Geziqi
Many cars,
including those of Rally Albania,
representatives of the Mountain Areas
Development Agency, leaders of Municipality,
artists, authors, researchers, were
accompanied by a police car and stopped at
the Geziqi church. Here the researcher Ndue
Dedaj talked about the epicenter of the
Arberia state, highlighting the importance
of this area not only for Mirdita, but for
all of Albania. This is verified by the
emblem of Arber found here, which is now in
the National Historic Museum serving as a
testimonial of our authenticity.
Participants were greeted by the Mayor of
Rreshen, Gjon Dedaj, who expressed this as
the beginning of a beautiful road for the
promotion of the tourist resources of our
region. Shkelzim Marku, the Director of the
Mountain Areas Development Agency, was
impressed by the natural beauty of this
region. He said that his agency will give
priority to the promotion of the mountainous
areas and the resources that they have.
Second
Stop: Bridges of the Motorway
After
 a short stop in Shpal at the place of famous
assemblies, the tourist caravan led by Rally
Albania passed through some parts of the new
motorway, observing the giant bridges in
Reps. One kilometer away you can recognize
the modern European standard of this
trans-Balkan motorway.
Third Stop:
Ulti Tree in Nenshejt
Then
the tourist caravan passed through the
villages of Orosh, Lgjini and Bulshari and
further to Nenshejt (1,500 meters above sea
level). The most beautiful view there was
after the spreading of the mist from night
rain, we could see a marvelous panorama of
the abbacy and traces of the motorway. The
tourist group visited the Ulti tree in
Nenshejt, planted by Benedictine monks who
came here from Rome 900 years ago. Though
“old”, and in its last breaths, it is a
miracle in itself because of its beautiful
location at Qafe Shejt. The researcher
Bardhok Pulaj in the role of a guide
explained the history and the church
ensemble in this magical place. Because of
its history and picturesque view, the early
Benedictines, who had as their motto the
phrase “pray and work”, planted these trees
as the seeds of the faith. Many photos are
taken there. The Director of the Forest
Service, Lek Marndrea has declared that this
mountain is a protected national park, and
as a result some revitalization projects
will be implemented. This is important
because these projects will protect the
forests from cutting and especially from
fires in the summer. The green crown of
Nenshejt was burned last summer because from
forest fires.
Fourth
Stop: Fushe Lugjet
Then
there was a spontaneous show of the Rally
Albania cars in Fushe-Lugje, where
courageous drivers like Spartaku, Edi, Dori
and Xhikja performed magnificent scenes at
top speeds, speeding across the fields. The
noise of the motors made the horses run
through the infinite paddocks and piqued the
shepherds who come here with their cattle to
pass the summer in dairy farms. This is
also a blessed place for the bees that
buzzed in the fields. Rally drivers said
that it was an incomparable place of
Albania, while they did treacherous climbing
to the top of the hills. Big dogs of the
dairy farms accompanied them, barking with
the “gallop” of rally cars.
Fifth
Stop: Mirdita Wedding Traditions
Nenshejti
is gathered together in a wedding, a
traditional wedding like in the early times.
At the yard of spacious two-story abode of
Gjete Ndoj, welcomed “the wedding guests of
the Mirdita Ensemble”. A perfect show in
the ceremony was performed by the artists of
the Ensemble with the veiled bride on a
horse, best men, mother of the bride and
others. All this was accompanied by natural
foods, welcoming of the best men and
presents for the bride, while the Ensemble
performed traditional wedding songs. In
that pleasant wedding environment the
visitors tasted traditional drinks,
distinguished by the wine and brandy of the
traditional regional viniculture, and also
the medicinal drinks created by the master
in this field, Nikoll Pershqefa. Forty
types of popular medicines taken from the
mountains of Mirdita were presented there,
as well as the natural traditional food.
The food on the table in green yard of this
bastion was domestic, including yogurt,
cheese, milk, meat, butter, honey, etc.
Miss
Bjeshka
Beautiful
and very welcomed was the presentation of
summer beauties. Accompanied with
orchestral the women presented traditional
clothes of Mirdita. With public voting Miss
Bjeshka was selected for the guide “Tourist
Mirdita 2008”. The winner was Alvarita
Preci, a student of Tirana University, while
the runner-up was Pranvera Ndoj, who had
just graduated in journalism and performed
in a perfect way the role of the traditional
bride. For the winners, the wine producer
Arberi gave contributions to support the
promotion of the rare Mirdita
beauties.
With the rhythms of the song “si
vendlindja jone nuk ka” (roughly, “there
is no place like home”) this special tourist
activity is closed, a special event among
all activities organized in Albania. The
group stopped at the famous abbacy of Orosh,
where its history and the famous priest
Prend Doci were discussed. The story of the
Captain’s family was told and the final
itinerary at Gryke Orosh. From here, the
group returned to Rreshen to finish this
northern excursion, in a region which holds
an extraordinary value for domestic and
foreign visitors.
By:
Aleksander Ndoja, webmaster & journalist.
Written
material:
·
Ndue Dedaj
(Land of Cathedrals) ·
Bardhok
Pulaj (Knowledge About the Motherland)
·
Gjon Marku
(Nderfana)
·
Editor:
Gjergj Marku
Organizers:
·
Rreshen
Department of Culture
·
Mirdita
Palace of Culture
·
Forum for
the Development of Mountainous Areas,
Mirdita
Mirdita,
July 2008
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